Can anyone give me any advice on ‘D.I.N’ settings.
I know the ski hire place will set your bindings but I’ve often heard it said, mainly by ski instructors, that the hire shops don’t set them correctly and through the course of my weeks skiing the ski instructor adjusts them.
This year we’re not having lessons so I’d like to know how to set my own bindings.
I’ve found one site through google but they only give settings up to 60 kgs. That’s no good as I’ve not been that weight since ...
Can anyone give me any advice on ‘D.I.N’ settings.
I know the ski hire place will set your bindings but I’ve often heard it said, mainly by ski instructors, that the hire shops don’t set them correctly and through the course of my weeks skiing the ski instructor adjusts them.
This year we’re not having lessons so I’d like to know how to set my own bindings.
I’ve found one site through google but they only give settings up to 60 kgs. That’s no good as I’ve not been that weight since I was 15 !!!!!
It looks a bit intimidating at first, but just take each column in turn and find where you fit in, remembering to step up and down for your ability and the conditions (i.e. the settings will be a lot lower on a dry slope than coming down the Wall at Pamps).
All you need is ...
Ahhh, back to the old days when I used to do this for a living.
It looks a bit intimidating at first, but just take each column in turn and find where you fit in, remembering to step up and down for your ability and the conditions (i.e. the settings will be a lot lower on a dry slope than coming down the Wall at Pamps).
All you need is a few turns of a screwdriver in the right place to actually alter the settings, but the most important thing to remember is that the heel and the toe setting must be exactly the same or the whole device won't work properly.
Float between a 7 or an 8 methinks (although double check this yourself!) 7 for the green/blue first days, maybe up to an 8 for a red or black ... but at first err on the side of the lower number. If you feel they're popping out to much, tighten them up ... better to release too much than not at all when you need them to!
Ah, but I'm a boarder now, so I don't need to worry about such things
Just to clarify ... was talking to a guy at work about this too ... when it says move down the chart, move down the page, not down to the lower numbers, which are up the page. If that makes a lick of sense?!
Just to clarify II ... son of clarify. I had you down as a grade 3 skiier, but looking back you've said 'moderate', so take one number off the above figures ... float between a 6 and a 7. But when you're doing it for yourself, it's more art than science, you'll feel if they're too tight or not.
If the bindings have it ... look for a little black gap or window on the side of the heel. In there, you'll find a metal pointer or white line which ideally should be right in the middle, or at ...
Just to clarify II ... son of clarify. I had you down as a grade 3 skiier, but looking back you've said 'moderate', so take one number off the above figures ... float between a 6 and a 7. But when you're doing it for yourself, it's more art than science, you'll feel if they're too tight or not.
If the bindings have it ... look for a little black gap or window on the side of the heel. In there, you'll find a metal pointer or white line which ideally should be right in the middle, or at least visible. This indicates that the pressure is equal on both sides. Not really that important with new gear, but when they get older, some springs may not push as hard as they used to, and a 6 at one side might not be the same as a 6 at the other. As long as you can see the mark, you're fine.