Bulgaria Ski discussion board
Stupid boarding question
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posts : 13 (Beginner)Date : 02-05-06 13:21Stupid boarding question
GuysAt the risk of embarrassing myself completey - I have a boarding question I need to ask. After 4 years of boarding, this will be the first time I'll be going away with a board of my own. I've bought a new board and I can't tell if its waxed or not! Are most new boards waxed and ready to go when you buy them? I'm too scared to go back to the shop and ask!
Any ideas? Thanks. Andy
re: Stupid boarding question
iv'e just bought a board out there and they said boards are waxed and dont need waxing for about 2 weeks thats if u use them every day, what make is itre: Stupid boarding question
Most boards come with a factory wax, and many people reckon it's the best wax you can get. Sometimes the quality differs between manufacturers though. See how you get on, you can always get it waxed in the resort. Try and get a hot wax if possible...re: Stupid boarding question
Two of my mates took their own boards that they had bought from decathlon and they did not need waxing.re: Stupid boarding question
1 Tip Run your nail over the front and back edge if it takes a shaving of your nail you will need to file it down and round it of a bit, if you don't you may find yourself doing a few tricks that hurt ie nose dives.Take care James
re: Stupid boarding question
This information was relayed to me when I bought my Ride Timeless in Whistler a number of years ago:
Leave off waxing the board as long as possible. When boards are made they are ground and as such are full of little tiny air pockets all along the base. This helps the board glide on a cushion of air reducing friction. Waxing fills this and depending on the wax used can make the board slower. Speaking from experience my old Timeless has about 14 weeks on the snow and still glides as fast ...
Leave off waxing the board as long as possible. When boards are made they are ground and as such are full of little tiny air pockets all along the base. This helps the board glide on a cushion of air reducing friction. Waxing fills this and depending on the wax used can make the board slower. Speaking from experience my old Timeless has about 14 weeks on the snow and still glides as fast ...
This information was relayed to me when I bought my Ride Timeless in Whistler a number of years ago:
Leave off waxing the board as long as possible. When boards are made they are ground and as such are full of little tiny air pockets all along the base. This helps the board glide on a cushion of air reducing friction. Waxing fills this and depending on the wax used can make the board slower. Speaking from experience my old Timeless has about 14 weeks on the snow and still glides as fast as anything. Whatever you do don't use "snake oil".
I guess this may be what James is alluding to but just to clarify; as you go along the board egde from the centre towards the tips the board widens and goes from a concave form to a convex form as it approaches the nose/tail. As it makes the transition from one form to the other take a fine file and just knock off the sharp edge. File at 45 degrees and make the chamfer about 0.5mm wide. Go easy and don't take too much off (it's easier to take more off than put any back on) and do it for about 75mm centered on the transition (ie approx 35mm either side of what you define as the centre of the transition). Try the board on the snow and if it still "tracks" take a little more off (obviously take the file with you but put in the "checked in luggage" and leave in the room once there). It's not an exact science, bit suck it and see. It's called "De-Tuning the nose".
And finally in a society that believes there is always someone to blame (it has been decreed that accidents can no longer take place) the above advice is offered in good faith and I take no-responsibility for you using it. If you're not sure take the board to someone who does.
Oh and don't be afraid to play with your binding settings/angles. I didn't seem to progress until one day I did just that. I now ride 30 degs lead front, 15 degs lead rear, maximum stance, regular no fakie. Not suggesting they'll work for you and most other boarders look twice when they see them. But they work for me.
And while improving keep your weight forward and on an edge, especially when gliding. Otherwise you may one day come across a mid forties bald geezer who as he flies past shout just that to you (I can't help it and therapy has not yet cured me of it).
Above all have a good time. And drink plenty of beer.
All the best John.
Leave off waxing the board as long as possible. When boards are made they are ground and as such are full of little tiny air pockets all along the base. This helps the board glide on a cushion of air reducing friction. Waxing fills this and depending on the wax used can make the board slower. Speaking from experience my old Timeless has about 14 weeks on the snow and still glides as fast as anything. Whatever you do don't use "snake oil".
I guess this may be what James is alluding to but just to clarify; as you go along the board egde from the centre towards the tips the board widens and goes from a concave form to a convex form as it approaches the nose/tail. As it makes the transition from one form to the other take a fine file and just knock off the sharp edge. File at 45 degrees and make the chamfer about 0.5mm wide. Go easy and don't take too much off (it's easier to take more off than put any back on) and do it for about 75mm centered on the transition (ie approx 35mm either side of what you define as the centre of the transition). Try the board on the snow and if it still "tracks" take a little more off (obviously take the file with you but put in the "checked in luggage" and leave in the room once there). It's not an exact science, bit suck it and see. It's called "De-Tuning the nose".
And finally in a society that believes there is always someone to blame (it has been decreed that accidents can no longer take place) the above advice is offered in good faith and I take no-responsibility for you using it. If you're not sure take the board to someone who does.
Oh and don't be afraid to play with your binding settings/angles. I didn't seem to progress until one day I did just that. I now ride 30 degs lead front, 15 degs lead rear, maximum stance, regular no fakie. Not suggesting they'll work for you and most other boarders look twice when they see them. But they work for me.
And while improving keep your weight forward and on an edge, especially when gliding. Otherwise you may one day come across a mid forties bald geezer who as he flies past shout just that to you (I can't help it and therapy has not yet cured me of it).
Above all have a good time. And drink plenty of beer.
All the best John.
