Bulgaria Ski discussion board

Just back from Bansko (23rd-30th). And would like to offer some thoughts. This was my first trip to Bulgaria and having tried to pick up a feel for the place/tips before going I none-the-less went with an open mind. I won't comment on the snow ( we had good/bad/indifferent) as it all depends on what you find when you go out, but will give passing comment to the hotel (Bisev), company (Neilson) and my thoughts on the general "set up" out there. Hope it proves useful....

To put all this in perspective I'm a pretty accomplished boarder (and skier) and have done the Alps and Canada, many times. Sorry about the immodesty but at least you know the crack.....and this was seen from the outset as a xmas holiday with whatever boarding could be done (a lot as it turned out).

The hotel was new, we were the first guests, ever. It was comfortable, clean and the staff were very helpful. As it was their first time cooking for English guests they did struggle a bit but constantly asked for advice and did their best. The food was generally undercooked but being b&b it didn't matter as most of the eating was done out. Other people staying H/B at some of the bigger hotels (no names) generally thought the food to be poor although the hotels themselves were very good. Our's was abit far from the slopes and people may find that a problem. Many are closer.

The two Neilson reps, Helen and Karl, were the best I have ever come across. We don't normally do the "organised rep nights" but did more so this time, mainly because of the reps personalities. They are both a credit to the company. And a great laugh. If you see Karl say...."not bovvered" (Catherine Tate).

The lift system in Bansko is probably one of the best in Europe for a resort of it's size. Modern fast (even the long ride up is bearable), mostly moving carpet/express quad........when they bother to run them (one lift has not even been commissioned! Another is "shut"). Trust me when I tell you they don't need much excuse to shut them, especially the top ones. This creates crowds on the slopes lower down when faster skiers/boarders (or more worryingly those that think they are fast.....) converge on novices.

The pistes are great, especially for beginners (when they get good enough to get off the apallingly crowded nursery drag and up to the cruisey blues higher up) and improving intermediates, of both persuasions. The runs are generally long, and wide and the piste map does little justice. Generally a bit limiting for the more advanced, the "black" (Tomba 9,9a) is not, just put on the piste map for a bit of cred. Off piste is bit limited too but be VERY careful, two inches of snow can cover a lot of rocks/stumps............talking of which the pisting is awful. Casual and half hearted. And why they couldn't be bothered to clear the ground better before the snow is a mystery. This is a European class resort waiting to get out if only they could see it (the pontential for slopes including blacks, especially under the adjacent 3 man/4 man). N.American input would transform this place as regards enjoyability/scope.

The nightlife covers everything from cosy mehanas to all night clubs (resort style). There are plenty of lively bars also (Amigo's/Lions etc). If you can't find what you want you wont have looked properly. As regards the thorny subject of "mafia" it never was an issue for anyone I spoke to, and intruded into no-ones holiday but all saw elements of it somewhere. Look out for the club with the doctered "no parking sign" outside. And the way the arrival of a local "dignatory" changes the atmos in a bar. The only people I guess who could run into trouble would be gangs of boozy lads but the Bulgarians are so huge (hey I'm not small...these guys are HUGE) you'd have to be a fool or a drunk to start. I know that might be a red rag to a bull for some but just use some sense.

Money.....change it in the hotels. We got 2.75 lev to the £, no commission (it's higher in Boro/Pamps I am told but the same applies). Just crisp, clean newish notes. Easy. Talking of which, and if most people were honest the main reason Bulgaria is chosen as a destination, boy is it cheap. Two of us going out, 6 nights (we were delayed; cheers Thos.Cook air) eating and drinking (hic) £230 the pair. Sure people have done better but thats not the point. At a guess France like for like would set you back at LEAST double that, and probably triple. Like I say, boy it's cheap.

Guess the acid test is would we go back (can we after the above?). Yes, and we probably will, February. Not just because it's cheap but the place has an allure despite some of the above, and hopefully the potential will be released by the (normally) strong Feb snows. If you're a Bulgarian virgin, give it a go, with an open mind. Whingers need not apply.

John.

Thanks. Tried to be objective. The place has massive potential, Pete and Dan, lets just hope they seize it.
As always you here the usual moaners who can't see past the end of their nose but if you actually give the place a chance you can have a cracking time...as we did. But go now because the development going on means it will only get more crowded. The lifts have been put in with an eye to the future and will cope with much increased traffic (if they crack them up more often) but the terrain needs to be opened up more to suit. There are several good pistes under the chairs but they need clearing better and the towers padding, especially under the Shillnagika 4 man running up to the funpark area (not constructed) and the three man going from the same point. Clear and manage the pistes better and you're on a winner.

Lets hope they don't wreck the old town in the process because for us that is what drew us there, the combination of old town and new resort. You do get the impression in the stampede to develop thats going on a cooler head, longer term approach would suit better.
Neilson's brochure seems to echo this: Go before they spoil it.

With that in mind we hope to grab a week there late Feb so if do will post again with update. All the best John.

John,

Do you mind if I cut and paste your report and put my name to it? because I have just returned and agree with everything you say with a couple of exceptions :-

1) I think that the lift system / users ratio is not far off its limit now especially in the crush times.Having said this it was Christmas week and one of the busiest times of the year. Queues and congestion could be eased at the base of the gondola with a second ski depot. There just doesn't seem to be enough room for everybody to pull their boots on in the mornings. This is not helped by the fact that everybody wants to meet at the bottom of the stairs blocking the route to the gondola.

I couldn't believe that the top T bars were closed one day when you could get a 4 man chair up to virtualy the same height without any problems. The couple of wide blues at the top could have relieved the congestion at the bottom.
Fantastic runs the are too. The views are outstanding from the top.

Again thanks for a great report !!!