Bulgaria Ski discussion board
How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
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posts : 13 (Beginner)Date : 02-14-08 19:22re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
WOW - give me a few minutes to commit to memory and then there'll be holding me back on the slopes.
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Joe, the weight thing has far more to do with board flex that length ... the lighter you are, the softer the flex. Heavier you are the stiffer the board.
The general rule of thumb is between nose and chin, taking into account your boot size in case of toe/heel drag.
On the other hand, the board doesn't know how tall you are, but does know how heavy you are, so if the rider is a bit muscly or portly I'd add a few inches so it doesn't keep skiding out all over the place, same with ...
The general rule of thumb is between nose and chin, taking into account your boot size in case of toe/heel drag.
On the other hand, the board doesn't know how tall you are, but does know how heavy you are, so if the rider is a bit muscly or portly I'd add a few inches so it doesn't keep skiding out all over the place, same with ...
Joe, the weight thing has far more to do with board flex that length ... the lighter you are, the softer the flex. Heavier you are the stiffer the board.
The general rule of thumb is between nose and chin, taking into account your boot size in case of toe/heel drag.
On the other hand, the board doesn't know how tall you are, but does know how heavy you are, so if the rider is a bit muscly or portly I'd add a few inches so it doesn't keep skiding out all over the place, same with really tall, skinny folk, I'd take off a few inches so they'd get some control, but it's absolutely height first, then things like weight, riding style (park or mountain) shoe size, etc etc.
The general rule of thumb is between nose and chin, taking into account your boot size in case of toe/heel drag.
On the other hand, the board doesn't know how tall you are, but does know how heavy you are, so if the rider is a bit muscly or portly I'd add a few inches so it doesn't keep skiding out all over the place, same with really tall, skinny folk, I'd take off a few inches so they'd get some control, but it's absolutely height first, then things like weight, riding style (park or mountain) shoe size, etc etc.
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
going slightly off here, i have quite wide feet,do ordinary sized boots accomodate this?
presumably you just clip the boot less tight accross your toes than you do up on your heel and calf?
is this right?
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Fecking hell this board needs a spell checker!Tim, they're only usually that sharp after a serious service, a skim across the sander and an 'edge'. The amount of cuts I used to get was unreal. But if you hit an icy ptach you'll be glad of that wee extra bite!
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Not sure about wide feet other than avoid Salomon rental boots ... the ones we had were designed for people with no big toes. Anyone else?re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
haha...i love this stuffrobert..youre a boarder yeah?? please explain about de-tuning your board and waxing
cheers
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Rob ur right there mate,the skis i used were Frasers last yr,and had just been serviced..Tiger
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Went to Pamps last year and we had to pester the bloke to do the settings as he didnt even look at us.At Kendal outdoor ski when we 1st turned up we had our weight,height and boot size looked at then the settings were applied. Same at Chill Factoree seems like afew minutes taken out for Customer Care could save a broken bone later on in the holiday!
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
you get what you pay for basically, weve had to dump the hire skiis that some of our 'guests' have turned up with as you cant polish a t**d and to be honest some of the rental gear is well well past its sell by date 
re: How to tell good Rental Ski\'s from bad rental ski\'s
I'm a boarder now yes ... gave up skiing long ago and eventually became a snowboard instructor, just ASSI though (Artificial surface) at the local dry slope and Braehead Xscape. Not good enough for the BASI course yet, and knees getting past it!
Was also a ski tech for a while but we used to outsource our boards as we didn't have the correct gear to service them, so a bit in the dark about proper board tuning as it happens! I found a guy up the road that does a half service for £20 ... ...
Was also a ski tech for a while but we used to outsource our boards as we didn't have the correct gear to service them, so a bit in the dark about proper board tuning as it happens! I found a guy up the road that does a half service for £20 ... ...
I'm a boarder now yes ... gave up skiing long ago and eventually became a snowboard instructor, just ASSI though (Artificial surface) at the local dry slope and Braehead Xscape. Not good enough for the BASI course yet, and knees getting past it!
Was also a ski tech for a while but we used to outsource our boards as we didn't have the correct gear to service them, so a bit in the dark about proper board tuning as it happens! I found a guy up the road that does a half service for £20 ... light skim on the grinder, wax and edge, so I don't bother anymore.
The basics of detuning are that you want to take the edge off the bits that don't have to be sharp, the top and tail, and a wee bit down the edge so that the board turns properly, the theory is that the board will grip an edge sooner than you'd like and can effect riding ... not convinced it makes an enormous difference, but it just involves taking a file to the edges you want to blunt ... get someone else to do it. Same with waxing unless you want to ruin your iron!
Was also a ski tech for a while but we used to outsource our boards as we didn't have the correct gear to service them, so a bit in the dark about proper board tuning as it happens! I found a guy up the road that does a half service for £20 ... light skim on the grinder, wax and edge, so I don't bother anymore.
The basics of detuning are that you want to take the edge off the bits that don't have to be sharp, the top and tail, and a wee bit down the edge so that the board turns properly, the theory is that the board will grip an edge sooner than you'd like and can effect riding ... not convinced it makes an enormous difference, but it just involves taking a file to the edges you want to blunt ... get someone else to do it. Same with waxing unless you want to ruin your iron!
