Bulgaria Ski discussion board
How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
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posts : 13 (Beginner)Date : 02-14-08 16:37How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
I've been skiing a couple of times before on rental gear however I was wondering whether people can give tips on what would help me work out whether the ski's I'm being given at the rental shop are decent or are going to be rubbish before I get to the slopes. Is it something to do with the "edges"
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Simple really, and this goes for boards as well as skis, (I used to work in rental when I was a poor student)
First of all, do they look as if they've had a beating, are the graphics scratched, are they dirty? Dirt not only makes them look bad, it effects the ability of the bindings to release properly.
Now look at the base to make sure it's undamaged, or that if any marks have been patched or ptex'd (a composite that's melted into any holes or deep scratches and then made flush with ...
First of all, do they look as if they've had a beating, are the graphics scratched, are they dirty? Dirt not only makes them look bad, it effects the ability of the bindings to release properly.
Now look at the base to make sure it's undamaged, or that if any marks have been patched or ptex'd (a composite that's melted into any holes or deep scratches and then made flush with ...
Simple really, and this goes for boards as well as skis, (I used to work in rental when I was a poor student)
First of all, do they look as if they've had a beating, are the graphics scratched, are they dirty? Dirt not only makes them look bad, it effects the ability of the bindings to release properly.
Now look at the base to make sure it's undamaged, or that if any marks have been patched or ptex'd (a composite that's melted into any holes or deep scratches and then made flush with the base). Any deep groves or holes, send them back ... you can get away with the odd scratch now and again, and you'll be lucky to get an umblemished pair this late in the season.
Now run the back of your fingernail against parts of the edge by flicking it lightly, paying particular attention to the edge between the bindings ... does it shave off a tiny part of your nail? If not, it's not sharp enough to dig in when you really need it.
Then we get to the bindings ... but that's a whole new post.
First of all, do they look as if they've had a beating, are the graphics scratched, are they dirty? Dirt not only makes them look bad, it effects the ability of the bindings to release properly.
Now look at the base to make sure it's undamaged, or that if any marks have been patched or ptex'd (a composite that's melted into any holes or deep scratches and then made flush with the base). Any deep groves or holes, send them back ... you can get away with the odd scratch now and again, and you'll be lucky to get an umblemished pair this late in the season.
Now run the back of your fingernail against parts of the edge by flicking it lightly, paying particular attention to the edge between the bindings ... does it shave off a tiny part of your nail? If not, it's not sharp enough to dig in when you really need it.
Then we get to the bindings ... but that's a whole new post.
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Robert please go on no one has told me this before!Glynis
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Yes I agree - very very interesting!!re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
I rented off Fraser in Borovets,and the skis i had were so sharp on the edges my mate cut his finger and i ripped my gloves.. 
Had a nice fall of snow on the 4th day so i paid for them to be hot waxed,which cost about 10lev,was like putting a turbo on your skiis,great fun in the powder...
Before this holiday i always took my hire skis and serviced them the first day,something you should never have to pay for but it's worth every penny...
I guess you should always use a good hire ...
Had a nice fall of snow on the 4th day so i paid for them to be hot waxed,which cost about 10lev,was like putting a turbo on your skiis,great fun in the powder...
Before this holiday i always took my hire skis and serviced them the first day,something you should never have to pay for but it's worth every penny...
I guess you should always use a good hire ...
I rented off Fraser in Borovets,and the skis i had were so sharp on the edges my mate cut his finger and i ripped my gloves..
Had a nice fall of snow on the 4th day so i paid for them to be hot waxed,which cost about 10lev,was like putting a turbo on your skiis,great fun in the powder...
Before this holiday i always took my hire skis and serviced them the first day,something you should never have to pay for but it's worth every penny...
I guess you should always use a good hire centre with good and up to date gear,it's worth every penny of the extra payment you may have to fork out...
Tiger
Had a nice fall of snow on the 4th day so i paid for them to be hot waxed,which cost about 10lev,was like putting a turbo on your skiis,great fun in the powder...
Before this holiday i always took my hire skis and serviced them the first day,something you should never have to pay for but it's worth every penny...
I guess you should always use a good hire centre with good and up to date gear,it's worth every penny of the extra payment you may have to fork out...
Tiger
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Seriously?!Ok, so they're clean(-ish), no major holes (or any major holes repaired) and sharp.
Also, they're the right size for you. Two schools of thought on this, the older boys will tell you for straight skis, neck height for beginner, head height for intermediate, bigger than you for expert.
Carving skis use the same rough guide as snowboards, at a height somewhere between your chin and mouth, give or take a few inches.
OK, bindings in a moment ...
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
That's why you use your fingernail! You could test sharpness with the front of your finger, but you might draw blood!re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Never seen them that sharp before Rob....Now you tell me,and i thought we were mates...
re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Snowboard length = weight, not height.re: How to tell good Rental Ski's from bad rental ski's
Bindings
There are big differences between hire bindings and ones you'll buy for yourself. Rental bindings are designed to be moved around and altered a lot so they tend to wear out a lot quicker.
Basics first ...
Bindings are essentially two springs that hold your boot between them. If the boot remains straight they'll keep it in place but if there's any sideways pressure, they'll release the boot ...basically holding the boot while you're skiing properly but firing you out if you ...
There are big differences between hire bindings and ones you'll buy for yourself. Rental bindings are designed to be moved around and altered a lot so they tend to wear out a lot quicker.
Basics first ...
Bindings are essentially two springs that hold your boot between them. If the boot remains straight they'll keep it in place but if there's any sideways pressure, they'll release the boot ...basically holding the boot while you're skiing properly but firing you out if you ...
Bindings
There are big differences between hire bindings and ones you'll buy for yourself. Rental bindings are designed to be moved around and altered a lot so they tend to wear out a lot quicker.
Basics first ...
Bindings are essentially two springs that hold your boot between them. If the boot remains straight they'll keep it in place but if there's any sideways pressure, they'll release the boot ...basically holding the boot while you're skiing properly but firing you out if you have a twisting fall.
In order to work properly they have to be clean, lubricated (only an issue after a few years use), and at the right setting.
The amount of pressure the springs place on your boot is measured by the DIN (stands for something along the lines of Deutsche Industrial Norm - something German anyway) There are flow charts to follow based on height, weight, boot size and ability, but most hire shops will 'guesstimate' to save time ... usually setting the DIN between 4 and 8 depending on how heavy you look ... and actaully 9 times out of 10 they'll get it right ... but how do you avoid being that 1 in 10 who's skis don't come off or keep popping out.
I'll get indepth in a moment, but basically, put your boot in it (without your foot in it) click it shut, and hit it with the heel of your hand. If in two or three heavy thumps it comes out, it's in the right area. If it comes out first time have them turned up, if it's stuck solid, have them turned down. You can do this yourself with a screwdriver, but best to let a ski tech do it.
A wee bit more indepth
Ok, rental bindings are designed to be altered quickly so they're fairly easy to adjust yourself (although if in doubt get someone qualified to do it). At the back of the heel piece there will be a catch that you lift up to adjust the position ... make sure it grabs the heel of the boot.
Secondly, the numbers should be the same at the toe and heel (although I'll contradict this in a second). It works as one unit, and if it doesn't have equal pressure front and back it won't work.
Not a lot of people know this bit ... you can tell it's at the right pressure by looking at the heel. On most makes of rental binding, at the bottom and one one or both sides there will be a small hole. Inside, if the binding is set correctly, you'll be able to see a small metal pin when you put a boot in the binding. Later in the season the springs wear out at different speeds, so to get the pin in the middle you might have to make slight adjustments to front and back, but I'm talking about something like 4.5 at the front 4.9 at the back, only small increments. Any more than that and they're buggered!
There are big differences between hire bindings and ones you'll buy for yourself. Rental bindings are designed to be moved around and altered a lot so they tend to wear out a lot quicker.
Basics first ...
Bindings are essentially two springs that hold your boot between them. If the boot remains straight they'll keep it in place but if there's any sideways pressure, they'll release the boot ...basically holding the boot while you're skiing properly but firing you out if you have a twisting fall.
In order to work properly they have to be clean, lubricated (only an issue after a few years use), and at the right setting.
The amount of pressure the springs place on your boot is measured by the DIN (stands for something along the lines of Deutsche Industrial Norm - something German anyway) There are flow charts to follow based on height, weight, boot size and ability, but most hire shops will 'guesstimate' to save time ... usually setting the DIN between 4 and 8 depending on how heavy you look ... and actaully 9 times out of 10 they'll get it right ... but how do you avoid being that 1 in 10 who's skis don't come off or keep popping out.
I'll get indepth in a moment, but basically, put your boot in it (without your foot in it) click it shut, and hit it with the heel of your hand. If in two or three heavy thumps it comes out, it's in the right area. If it comes out first time have them turned up, if it's stuck solid, have them turned down. You can do this yourself with a screwdriver, but best to let a ski tech do it.
A wee bit more indepth
Ok, rental bindings are designed to be altered quickly so they're fairly easy to adjust yourself (although if in doubt get someone qualified to do it). At the back of the heel piece there will be a catch that you lift up to adjust the position ... make sure it grabs the heel of the boot.
Secondly, the numbers should be the same at the toe and heel (although I'll contradict this in a second). It works as one unit, and if it doesn't have equal pressure front and back it won't work.
Not a lot of people know this bit ... you can tell it's at the right pressure by looking at the heel. On most makes of rental binding, at the bottom and one one or both sides there will be a small hole. Inside, if the binding is set correctly, you'll be able to see a small metal pin when you put a boot in the binding. Later in the season the springs wear out at different speeds, so to get the pin in the middle you might have to make slight adjustments to front and back, but I'm talking about something like 4.5 at the front 4.9 at the back, only small increments. Any more than that and they're buggered!
